Slippers-socks by Crochetصور

Cross-Over Long DC Hat ورشه عمل

Materials
Yarn: Patons Canadiana The New Generation (One 100g/3.5oz. ball), or any other worsted weight yarn that you have on hand. Please note that you may need more if making it a larger size.
Hook Size: 4.50mm, or any hook suitable for the yarn.
Gauge: 2" across the circle of first 5 rnds.
Finished Size: Teens/Adult Small - When laying flat it measures 9" across and 7" from top to bottom. There are two ways to increase the size: A larger hook and thicker yarn, or do more repeats of the increase rows.
Abbreviations:
Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
Dc = Double Crochet
FO = Fasten Off
Bpsc = Back Post Single Crochet
Hdc = Half Double Crochet
Hk = Hook
Prev = Previous
Rep = Repeat
Rnd/Rnds = Round/Rounds
Sc = Single Crochet
Sk = Skip
Sl St = Slip Stitch
St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
Working the Cross-Over Long Double Crochet:
For this pattern the cross-over long double crochet is worked into the last stitch made in previous round, or into the skipped stitch of current round. To make the stitch, yarn over and insert the hook from front to back into designated stitch. Yarn over at the back and pull through. You should have three loops on your hook. Yarn over and pull through first two loops. Yarn over and pull through last two loops. Cross-Over Long DC
A Few Images to Help with Rnds 16-23:

Mark last stitch of last rnd - this is where you will work your first cross-over long dc into.

First Cross-Over Long DC Made

Skip Next Stitch, Hdc in Next 3 Sts.

Second Cross-Over Long Dc Made.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 2nd ch from hk; do not join but continue to work in a continuous rnd. Place st marker in last st made of each rnd in order to keep track. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 5 times, sc in last 2 sts. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: (Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st) 5 times, sc in last 3 sts. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: (Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st) 5 times, sc in last 4 sts. (54 sts)
Rnd 10: (Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st) around. (60 sts)
Rnd 11: Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st) 5 times, sc in last 5 sts. (66 sts)
Rnd 12: (Sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep from * around. (72 sts)
Rnd 13: Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st) 5 times, sc in last 6 sts. (78 sts)
Rnd 14: (Sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st) rep from * around. (84 sts)
Note:
If you need a larger size hat you can continue with the increases as established in the increase rows - 6 increases per round. At the same time, you need to end up with a multiple of 4 sts at the last rnd, which means you may need to adjust the number of increases in the last 1 or 2 increase rnds.
Rnd 15: Sl st into next st, Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in each st around; join with sl st. (84 sts)
Rnds 16-23: Ch 1, hdc in same st as join, hdc in next 2 sts, cross-over long dc in last st of prev rnd, *sk next st, hdc in next 3 sts, cross-over long dc in skipped st; rep from * around; join with sl st to first hdc. (84 sts)
Rnd 24: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in each st around; join with sl st. (84 sts)
Rnds 25-27: Ch 1, work 1 bpsc in same st as join, sc in each st around; join with sl st. (84 sts)
Rnd 28: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in each st around; join with sl st. FO.
Brim:
Row 1: Join yarn to 31st st from where you fastened off. Ch 1, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 6 times, sl st into next st. Turn. 26 sc.
Row 2: Ch 1, skip the sl st, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across, sk the sl st, working into the band, sc into next sc of band, sl st into next st of band. Turn. 28 sc sts.
Rows 3-6: Rep row 2 making sure to make the increase at the beginning of each row. FO after row 6 and weave in ends. (36 sts)

Hat and Cowl

Incredibly Simple Slouchy Hat – Free Pattern!

Posted on October 17, 2013

Are you ready for a simple slouchy hat pattern that’s quick and uses only one skein of yarn?  Yea, me too especially since the holidays are coming up so quickly!
I haven’t played around with chunky yarn very much in my crochet experience but since having used it while making a free cowl pattern from Beatrice Ryan Designs, I’ve come to like the feel and how quickly a project works up.
I tried two different types of chunky yarn for this project because I always want to see which yarn can give me the results I’m trying to carry out.  My first choice was “I Love This Chunky Yarn” by Hobby Lobby and the other was by Lion Brand.  In the end, I chose “I Love This Chunky Yarn” because it was so super soft and for a hat, I think that’s pretty important.  Plus from the pictures below, you can see a big difference in the size of the hats although I used the same size hook and number of increase rounds.  I didn’t complete the Lion Brand version because I ran out of yarn and really didn’t want to start another skein when I knew I would be using the other anyway.
Now, on to the pattern.  I made this hat to fit adult size – approximately 22″.
Supplies:
I Love This Chunky Yarn by Hobby Lobby
Hook – Size N
Tapestry Needle for weaving in the ends
Gauge:  4 stitches and 2 rows = 2 inches
Abbreviations:
sl st – slip stitch
ch – chain
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
dc2tog – double crochet 2 together.  Here is a good explanation and tutorial by New Stitch A Day if you need help.
Instructions: 
ch 4, sl st into first ch to make a ring.
Round 1:  ch 1, 11 dc in ring, sl st in first dc (11 st)
Round 2:  ch 1, 2 dc in same space, 2 dc in next dc and around, sl st in first dc (22 st)
Round 3:  ch 1 and dc in same sp, 2 dc in next dc, *dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc* repeat from *to*, join by sl st in first dc (33 st)
Round 4:  ch 1 and dc in same sp, dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, *dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from *to*, join by sl st in first dc (44 st)
Round 5:  ch 1 and dc in same sp, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, *dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from *to*, join by sl st in first dc (55 st)
Rounds 6-8:  ch 1 and dc in same sp, dc in next dc and around, join by sl st in first dc (55 st)
Round 9:  ch 1 and dc in same sp, dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog, *dc in next 3 dc, dc2tog*, repeat from *to*, join by sl st to first dc (44 st)
Round 10:  ch 1 and dc in same sp, dc in next dc, dc2tog, *dc in next 2 dc, dc2tog*, repeat from *to*, join by sl st to first dc (33 st)
Rounds 11-13:  ch 1 and hdc in same sp, hdc in next dc and around, join by sl st in first hdc (33 st)
Round 14: ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in next hdc and around, join by sl st in first sc (33 st).
Finish off and weave in your ends.
I hope you enjoy this free pattern.  Please remember that you are welcome to sell your finished products if you wish.  I only ask that you reference or link back to ELK Studio as the designer.  Please do not use my photos as your own.
If you are on Ravelry, you can “favorite’ this project to your list for easy access!  I would love to see your version of this hat!!!!
I hope you have a great day!  Be blessed!

فكره لتكمله الحذاء البوط للتدفئه Crochet Boot Cuff

I Had No Idea Boot Cuffs Were So Popular! Ripple Stitch Boot Cuff Pattern

When I started selling my crochet items early December, one of my relatives asked me if I would make her some boot cuffs!  Well, they have definitely been my best-selling item thus far!  I was really excited when a local salon and boutique, 2 Chic asked to buy 10 pair from me! I live in Auburn, Alabama which if you don’t know, is a college town and the latest trendy items are very important to these college girls.  Needless to say, I worked HOURS getting them done but loving every minute of it too.
After making a few for my customers, I finally got a chance to write the pattern and wanted to share it with everyone else!  I hope you enjoy!  Please let me know if you catch any errors or have questions.  Constructive criticism is always welcomed.  It is the only way to get better!


Supplies:

1. I used I Love This Yarn medium (4) worsted weight.  The color I used was ivory.
2. Crochet Hook Size – H
3.  Tapestry needle for weaving in the ends.

Gauge:  9 stitches and 3 rows = approximately 2 inches
Abbreviations:
ch – chain
st – stitches
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
Top Portion of Boot Cuff
Row 1:  Ch 11 turn
Row 2:  Sc in second ch from hook and across, ch 1 turn.  (10 st)
Row 3:  Sc and 2 dc in first stitch, *skip 2 stitches, sc and 2 dc in next st*, repeat from * to * across and sc in last st.  Ch 1 and turn. (10 st)
Repeat row 3 until the desired measurement and fasten off leaving a long tail.
Join ends together using the long tail and take the side just fastened off using the tapestry needle to sew the front loop only of the stitch and the bottom loop of each sc on the first row.  Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Bottom Portion of Boot Cuff
Row 1:  Join to cuff by ch 1 and sc evenly around, sl st into first sc (not the ch 1).  (Hint)  You will later be decreasing stitches so be sure that your stitches will divide by 4 evenly then add two more sc.  (Example:  Sc 40 stitches plus 2=42 stitches around.)  42 will actually be a good number to use on the average size cuff.
Row 2:  ch 2, dc into next dc and around,  Sl st in top of ch 2 st.
Row 3:  ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in next st and around, sl st in first sc.
Row 4:  ch 2, dc into next dc and around,  Sl st in top of ch 2 st.
Row 5:  ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in next st and around, sl st in first sc.
Row 6:  ch 2, dc into next dc and around,  Sl st in top of ch 2 st.
Row 7:  ch 1 and sc in same space, sc in next 3 stitches, *skip next sc, sc in next 4 st*, repeat from * to * across, sl st in first sc.
Row 8:  ch 2 and hdc in next stitch and around, sl stitch in top of ch 2 st.
Row 9:  ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in next stitch and around, sl stitch in first sc.  Fasten off and weave in ends.
Add buttons if desired.
Please feel free to make or sell products from this pattern!  I believe in free enterprise but just ask to link back to my site.  Please do not copy this pattern as your own.  Please do not re-publish photos as your own.
More free patterns are coming so be sure to keep in touch on my ELK Studio – Handcrafted Crochet Designs Facebook page to stay turned for availability!
God Bless and Happy Crocheting!

باترون قبعه كيروشيه

Granny Stripe Headband/Earwarmer

I had to stop in the middle of working my Granny Stripe Boutique Bag the other day and when I set it down realized it would make a perfect headband/earwarmer. I used a smaller hook size so the shells would be closer together. I think it turned out perfectly! I love how these look all stacked together. This pattern is written for children 6-12. You can increase or decrease the size of this by adding or subtracting by 3's to the initial chain. For children 2-5 I would recommend only doing three rows of shells so it's not to bulky. To make it extra warm you could add a layer of fleece as a liner.

This is my beautiful daughter Isabel modeling. She was very patient with me while taking pictures on a cold day. Thanks Boo boo! Its getting REALLY cold here in Kansas! Hope some of you will enjoy this pattern too.

MATERIALS LIST:
Worsted Weight Yarn (I used Impeccable found at Michaels.)
Hook Size 4mm
Scissors
Tapestry Needle

STITCH COMBINATIONS:
Shell is "work 3 dc in same st or sp."
Beginning Shell is "work ch 3, 2 dc in same st or sp."

TIPS:
Join all rounds.
Do not turn after rounds.

Starting out: Ch 67.

Row 1: Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Continue working sc in each ch st to end. Join w/ sl st in 1st sc. You will now be working in rounds. (66sc)
Rnd 1: Sc in same st as join and in each st to end. Join in top of first sc. (66 sc)
Rnd 2: Work Beginning Shell in same st as join. {Skip 2 stitches, then work Shell in the next st.} Repeat between {} around. Join in top of ch 3. (22 Shells)
Rnd 3: Sl St in each dc of shell into sp between first two shells. Work Beginning Shell. {Work Shell in space between next shell.} Repeat between {} to end. Join in top of ch 3. (22 Shells)
Rnd 4-5: Repeat round 3.
Rnd 6: Ch 1. Sc in next 2 st then sc in sp between shell. Repeat between {} around. Join in top of first sc. (66 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1. Sc in next st and in each st around. Join in top of first sc. (66 sc)

Finish off. Whip stitch initial chain together with beginning tail. Weave in ends.

Crochet Ribbon Headband Pattern

Size
This is meant to fit a baby through child (it's adjustable!)


Materials
US Size I (5.5mm) Crochet Hook
1/3 Skein Aran or Worsted weight yarn (I used Vanna's Choice here)
Ribbon about 16" long (I used 5/8" thick but you could go thinner or thicker if you wanted)

Directions
CH 68
Row 1: SC in second CH from the hook and SC to end
Row 2: CH1, turn, in first SC space, *SC, 2DC, skip 2 SC spaces, repeat from * to last SC space, SC
Row 3: CH 1, turn, in first SC space, SC, 2DC, skip 2 DC spaces, *SC, 2DC in SC space, skip 2 DC spaces, repeat from * to last SC space, SC
Rows 4 - 7: Repeat row 3
Row 8: CH1, turn, SC in each space across
Tie off and weave in ends.
Bring your handband ends together, overlapping one end over the other, and weave your ribbon through both ends.  Enjoy!

Abbreviations
CH = Chain
DC = Double Crochet
SC = Single Crochet

باترون غرز نهايات كيروشيه

غرز كيروشيه بالصور

تعلمى غرز كيروشيه

Crochet DROPS socks in 2 threads ”Fabel”.

Sizes:
US: 5/6½ - 7½/9 - 9½/10½
EU: 35/37 - 38/40 – 41/43
Leg length: approx 26-27-28 cm / 10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"
Foot length: 23-24-27 cm / 9”-9½”-10 5/8”

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
100-100-100 g color no 903, yellow/pink
50-50-100 g color no 911, fun lilac
50-50-100 g color no 910, sea mist

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4.5 mm/US 7 – or size needed to get 14 dc x 9 dc/rows = 10 x 10 cm
 STRIPES:
Crochet each round with 2 threads Fabel in stripes as follows: * 2 rounds with 1 thread Fun lilac + 1 thread yellow/pink, 2 rounds with 1 thread Sea mist + 1 thread Yellow/pink*, repeat from *-*.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec 1 dc/sc as follows:
Crochet 1 dc/sc, but wait with the last pull-through, crochet next dc/sc, but when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 dec dc/sc.
--------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------

SOCKS:
Crochet from top down.
Ch 41-43-46 with hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with 1 thread sea mist + 1 thread yellow/pink and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Continue in the round as follows:
Ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the first 1-3-1 ch, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 4 ch *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 34-36-38 dc. Crochet 1 round with 1 dc in each dc.
Now continue in STRIPES - see above - and as follows:
ROUND 3: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the first 9 dc, * skip 1 dc, 2 dc (= 1 dc-group) in next dc *, repeat from *-* a total of 7-8-9 times, 1 dc in each of the last 10 dc and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
There are now 20 dc and 7-8-9 dc-groups on round.
ROUND 4: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the first 9 dc, 2 dc (= 1 dc-group) between last dc and first dc-group from previous round, 1 dc-group between all dc-groups (= 6-7-8 times), 1 dc in each of the last 10 dc and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the first 9 dc, 1 dc-group between all dc-groups from previous round (6-7-8 times), 1 dc-group between the last dc-group and the first dc from previous round, 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Repeat round 4 and 5. AT THE SAME TIME on 8th round dec 1 dc each side of 3 ch mid back - see DECREASING TIP! There are now 18 dc and 7-8-9 dc-groups on round.
Repeat the dec on 18th round. There are now 16 dc and 7-8-9 dc-groups on round. Continue until there are 19-20-21 rounds, piece measures approx 21-22-23 cm / 8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9". Now crochet heel as follows:

HEEL:
Crochet the heel in the 2 threads used on the last round before heel.
Ch 1, then 1 sl st in 3rd ch from previous row, and 1 sl st in each of the first 7 dc. Turn piece. Crochet 1 sc in each of the 8 sl sts, then 1 sc in each of the next 8 dc = 16 sc (= heel-sts). Turn piece (next row = from RS). Now crochet sc back and forth on heel-sts, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 sc - see DECREASING TIP - each side on every row until 8 sc remain. Turn piece (next row = from RS). Insert a marker.
Crochet 1 sc in each sc, AT THE SAME TIME at the end of every row crochet 2 new sc along the side on heel. AT THE SAME TIME at beg of every row dec 1 sc. Continue like this until there are 16 sc on row again – you have now crochet in all the rows along the side of heel. Continue in the round.

FOOT:
Continue with Stripes as before.
Work 4 sc between heel-sts and last row on leg before heel. Then crochet 1 dc-group between heel-sts and first dc-group from last row before heel. Now crochet 1 dc-group between all dc-groups on upper foot (= 6-7-8 times), 4 sc between dc-group on upper foot and heel-sts, 1 sl st in each of the next 8 sc on heel and 1 sl st in the next sc. Round now beg here = mid under foot.
ROUND 1: Ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the first 11 sc, 1 dc-group between all dc-groups from previous row (= 6-7-8 dc-groups), 1 dc-group between the last dc-group and first sc from previous row and 1 dc in each of the last 12 sc/sl sts. There are now 24 dc under foot and 7-8-9 dc-groups on upper foot.
ROUND 2: Ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the first 9 dc, dec 1 dc, crochet 1 dc-group between the last dc and first dc-group from previous round, then 1 dc-group between all dc-groups (= 6-7-8 times), dec 1 dc, 1 dc in each of the next 10 dc and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. You have now dec 1 dc each side of dc-group on upper foot = 22 dc under foot and 7-8-9 dc-groups on upper foot.
ROUND 3: Ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the first 10 dc, 1 dc-group between each dc-group from previous round (= 6-7-8 dc-groups), 1 dc-group between the last dc-group and first dc from previous round, 1 dc in each of the last 11 dc.
Repeat round 2 and 3 a total of 6-6-7 times. Piece now measures approx 19-19-22 cm / 7½"-7½"-8 3/4" from marker on heel and there are 12-12-10 dc under foot and 7-8-9 dc-groups on upper foot.

TOE:
Crochet the toe in the 2 threads used on the last round before toe.
Ch 1, then 1 sc in each st and finish with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 26-28-28 sc.
Insert a marker each side with 12-13-13 sc on upper foot and under foot. Continue in the round, AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 sc each side on every other round as follows: Work round until 1 sc before sc with marker, work 1 sc but wait with the last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 sc in sc with marker but wait with the last pull-through (= 3 sts on hook), work 1 sc in next sc, but when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook = 2 dec sc.
Dec like this each side 3-4-4 times = 14-12-12 sc on round. Work 1 round with 1 sc in each sc. Cut the thread. Place the sock flat and sew toe tog. Fasten threads.
/ 4'' x 4''.

Easiest Headwrap EVER!!!

This is, from now on, my GO-TO, no-brainer Easiest Headwrap EVER Pattern! I hope it quickly becomes yours.

Materials:
any WW yarn
Size H 5.0mm hook
Yarn sewing needle
One button
Abbreviations:
ch – chain
sk – skip
sp(s) – space(s)
slst – slip stitch
st – stitch
sc – single crochet
hdc - half double crochet
dc – double crochet
Gauge: 7hdc x (almost) 6 rows = 2″ square
Finished headwrap measures approx. 22″ long
Note 1: When working the hdc stitches insert hook BETWEEN the stitches NOT in the top 2 loops. I love the way the stitches lay when worked this way and since the piece is worked back & forth it provides a more uniformed look. See picture below.

Note 2: The ch1 NEVER counts as a stitch.
Note 3: I tend to crochet on the loose side so if you find as you’re working this up that it may be too short for you, just add some extra rows right before starting the decrease.
Row 1 - ch5, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc across to end, ch1, turn. (4)
Row 2 - hdc in 1st st, ch2, sk 2 sts, hdc in last st, ch1, turn. (2 sts & a ch2 sp…button hole)
Row 3 - 2hdc in 1st st, 2hdc in ch2 sp, 2hdc in last st, ch1, turn. (6)
Row 4 - hdc in each st across, ch1, turn. (6)
Row 5 - 2hdc, hdc in next 4, 2hdc, ch1, turn. (8)
Row 6 - hdc across, ch1, turn. (8)
Row 7 - 2hdc, hdc in next 6, 2hdc, ch1, turn. (10)
Row 8 - hdc across, ch1, turn. (10)
Row 9 - 2hdc, hdc in next 8, 2hdc, ch1, turn. (12)
Row 10 - hdc across, ch1, turn. (12)
Rows 11-55 – REPEAT Row 10. (12)
Row 56 - sk 1st st, hdc in next 9, sk 1 st, hdc in last, ch1, turn. (10)
Row 57 - hdc across, ch1, turn. (10)
Row 58 - sk 1st st, hdc in next 7, sk 1 st, hdc in last, ch1, turn. (8)
Row 59 - hdc across, ch1, turn. (8)
Row 60 - sk 1st st, hdc in next 5, sk 1 st, hdc in last, ch1, turn. (6)
Row 61 - hdc across, ch1, turn. (6)
Row 62 - sk 1st st, hdc in next 3, sk 1 st, hdc in last, ch1, turn. (4)
Row 63 - hdc across, ch1, DO NOT TURN. (4)

*NOW work SC down the side of the piece all the way around by putting 1sc in each hdc row & 2sc in each corner. Slst to the first sc made to join. Finish off and weave in your ends.

Line up your button hole to the other side and sew on your button of choice!

EASY PEASY!!

I think this would make an awesome scrap yarn project with different colored rows!!

Now the FLOWER PATTERN:
Ch5, join with a slst to the first ch to make a loop.

Round 1 - ch1, (sc, ch1, 3dc, ch1, sc) in the loop FOUR times, slst to the first sc made. {Now remove hook from loop, take your hook and insert it from behind and pull the loop from the front to the back and continue on the Round 2} (4 petals total)

Round 2 - (working behind the petals), *slst around the middle dc from previous round, ch4* repeat from *to* around, slst to the first ch4 made. (4 ch4 sps total)

Round 3 - ch1, (sc, ch1, 5dc, ch1, sc) in all the ch4 sps around, slst to the first sc made. {Now remove hook from loop, take your hook and insert it from behind and pull the loop from the front to the back and continue on the Round 4} (4 petals total)

Round 4 - (working behind the petals), ch4, slst around the middle dc from previous round, *ch4, slst around next sc, ch4, slst around the middle dc from previous round, ch4* repeat *to* around, slst to first ch4 sp. (8 ch4 sps total)

Round 5 - ch1, (sc, sc1, 5dc, ch1, sc) in all the ch4 sps around, slst to the first sc made. (8 petals total) Fasten Off and weave in ends!

Enjoy!

You now have a beautiful headwrap! Thank you for visiting my blog. I’d love to see pictures and hear about your headwraps you’ve made!

* If making and selling this as a finished product please link back to this blog post for the pattern. Do not copy or change this pattern and sell it as your own. If you have ANY questions feel free to email me at frayed_knot@att.net Thank You!!!

baby - Toddler Crochet Socks

Down-loadable PDF crochet pattern found here

Basic Materials needed for pattern: 

*H and I hook

*Worsted weight yarn, I used Caron Simply Soft but I think a nice wool such as cascade 220 would work much better ( :

*Crochet skillz 

Pattern has directions for doing baby/toddler sizes 1-11 

you like?....I like!.....we all like??!

Just in case the download isn't working for you...

Materials:

*H hook and I hook

*2 colors DK weight yarn – MC and CC

*Stitch Marker

*Yarn needle

 

 

Gauge: (with I hook) 8 sc’s and 10 rows = 2 in. square

Notes: These socks are worked in the round, so you will need to use a stitch marker to keep your place. Make sure you keep track of your rows…important.

Pattern comes in sizes Baby/Toddler Shoe sizes 1-11 see baby pattern for sizes 1-5 and see toddler pattern for sizes 6-11

 

Baby

With H hook and CC, Ch. 4

Rnd 1 – 3sc in 2^nd chain from hook, sc in next , 3sc in last. Now we will be working on the opposite side of our foundation ch. Sc in last. No join because we are working in the round. (8)  

Note: If you have undesirable holes in the middle of your round, don’t worry – you can sew them shut later

Rnd 2 – 2sc in next 3, sc in next, 2sc in next 3, sc in last. (14)

Rnd 3 – sc in next, 2sc in next 4, sc in next 3, 2sc in next 4, sc in last 2. (22)

Rnd 4 through Rnd 5 – sc even around. (22)

With I hook and MC

Work 7 even sc rows for shoe size 1 – 2 (approx. 3 – 4” foot)

Work 11 even sc rows for shoe sizes 3 – 5 (approx. 4 – 5” foot)

Next Rnd – For Sizes 1-2 sc in next 19, for sizes 4 – 5 sc in next 20, (the rest of the instructions are the same for both sizes) change to H hook and CC, (remove stitch marker and continue on, we will have a new beginning of row after we are done with the heel) sc in next (we will call this stitch CC1), sc in next 9, sc in next (we will call this stitch CC11). Ch 1 and turn (Do not count turning chain as a stitch)

            Heel decrease row 1 – sc2tog, sc in next 7, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn

            Heel decrease row 2 – sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn

            Heel decrease row 3 – sc2tog, sc in next 3, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn

            Heel decrease row 4 – sc2tog, sc in next, sc2tog…now we will start the beginning of our                  increase row…sc down into the side of decrease row 3. Ch 1 and turn

Note: For the next 5 increase rows we will be working down the sides of these decrease rows.

Heel increase row 1 – sc in next 4, sc into the side of row 3, sc into the side of dec row 2. Ch 1 and turn

Heal increase row 2 – sc in next 6, sc into the side of row 2, sc into the side of dec row 1. Ch 1 and turn

Heel increase row 3 – sc in next 8, sc into the side of dec row 1, sc into same st as CC1. Ch 1 and turn

            Heel increase row 4 – sc in next 10, sc into same st as CC11.

 Ankle Rnd 1 – Change to I hook and MC (this next stitch will be the new beginning stitch, so get that stitch marker back out J) sc in each st around. (22)

Ankle Rnd 2 –sc in next 3, 2sc in next, sc in next 3, 2sc in next, sc in next 3, hdc in next 3, hdc2tog, hdc in next, hdc2tog, hdc in last 3.

Ankle Rnd 3 – sc in next 6, 2sc in next, sc in next 6, hdc in next 2, hdc2tog, hdc in next hdc2tog, hdc in last 2. (21)

Ankle Rnd 4 – sc in next 14, hdc in last 7.

Ankle Rnd 5 – sc in next 14, hdc in last 7. 

Ankle Rnd 6 – Change to CC and sc in each st around. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

 

 

Toddler

With H hook and CC, Ch. 6

Rnd 1 – 3sc in 2^nd chain from hook, sc in next 3, 3sc in last. Now we will be working on the opposite side of our foundation ch. Sc in last 3. No join because we are working in the round. (12)  

Note: don’t worry about the holes in the middle of your round – you can sew them shut later 

Rnd 2 – 2sc in next 3, sc in next 3, 2sc in next 3, sc in last 3. (18)

Rnd 3 – sc in next, 2sc in next 4, sc in next 5, 2sc in next 4, sc in last 4. (26)

Rnd 4 through Rnd 5 sc even around. (26)

With I hook and MC

Work 16 even sc rows for a shoe size 6-8

Work 20 even sc rows for a shoe size 9-11

Next Rnd – For show sizes 6 – 8 sc in next 22, For shoe sizes 9 – 11 sc in next 23, (The rest of the instructions from here are the same for both sizes) Remove stitch marker and change to H hook and CC. sc in next (we will call this stitch CC1), sc in next 11, sc in next (we will call this stitch CC13). Ch 1 and turn (Do not count turning chain as a stitch)

            Heel decrease row 1 – sc2tog, sc in next 9, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn

            Heel decrease row 2 – sc2tog, sc in next 7, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn

            Heel decrease row 3 – sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn

            Heel decrease row 4 – sc2tog, sc in next 3, sc2tog. Ch 1 and turn

Heel decrease row 5 – sc2tog, sc in next, sc2tog…now we will start the beginning of our increase row…sc down into the side of decrease row 4. Ch 1 and turn

Note: For the next 5 increase rows we will work our increases down the sides of these decrease rows.

Heel increase row 1 – sc in next 4, sc into the side of row 4, sc into the side of decrease row 3. Ch 1 and turn

Heal increase row 2 – sc in next 6, sc into the side of row 3, sc into the side of decrease row 2. Ch 1 and turn

Heel increase row 3 – sc in next 8, sc into the side of decrease row 2, sc into the side of  decrease row 1. Ch 1 and turn

Heel increase row 4 – sc in next 10, sc into the side of decrease row 1, sc into the same st as CC1. Ch 1 and turn

Heel increase row 5 – sc in next 12, sc into same st as CC13.

Ankle Rnd 1 – Change to I hook and MC (this next stitch will be the new beginning stitch, so get that stitch marker back out J) sc in each st around. (26)

Ankle Rnd 2 –sc in next 4, 2sc in next, sc in next 3, 2sc in next, sc in next 4, hdc in next 4, hdc2tog, hdc in next, hdc2tog, hdc in last 4.

Ankle Rnd 3 – sc in next 7, 2sc in next, sc in next 7, hdc in next 3, hdc2tog, hdc in next hdc2tog, hdc in last 3.

Ankle Rnd 4 – sc in next 16, hdc in last 9.

Ankle Rnd 5 – sc in next 16, hdc in last 9. 

Ankle Rnd 6 – Change to CC and sc in each st around. 

Fasten off and weave in all ends.